Julie and I took the kids to New York. Here's my diary.
Thursday we skirt the city in quest of our hotel on Long Island
City. I'd say our location--just a block from a subway stop that will get us
to Manhattan in five minutes--is near-perfect. Arriving in NYC around
5:30pm is not so perfect, and the traffic across the George Washington
Bridge was coagulatory, but that is expected. The hotel pleases.
The neighborhood real estate scene is in the process of flipping up
and we
congratulate ourselves on getting in on the ground floor. Or the 15th
floor, actually, where we can see the ESB and, better, the Chrysler
Building from our room. We are living La Vida Longislandista! We loose
our
subway-riding virginity. Few other people are crazy enough to bring
children here, but amazingly we will see a few people pushing
strollers. The
sister-in-lawösphere escorts us to a little greek restaurant. I enjoy
lamb and spinach stew: not a carbohydrate in sight! The
sister-in-lawösphere tells about her volunteer work combatting
modern-day slavery. Evil people piss me off.
Friday I move my car to a parking garage to
avoid weird NY fines for parking on the street on Friday morning. The
lot attendant is one of the few genuine rude New Yorkers I encounter. I
love it when they reinforce my prejudices! It's raining and this is the
day we have tickets for the Statue of Liberty (the
Maharincess'
chosen destination). This is not a good combination. I even forget my
hat. We purchase outerwear for me and the kids on Liberty Island. This
means wearing glorified trash bags labeled "ponchos." A street
vendor also sells us umbrella hats for the kids. Nothing says
"sophisticated New York native" like an umbrella hat. The wifeösphere
locates her grandparents' names on the Wall of Honor at Ellis Island.
They both came over as young children as part of a group of
Wolgadeutsche (Germans living in the Volga River region of Russia). We
postpone our trip to the top of the ESB and go to MoMA instead,
spotting a subway rat along the way. He lacks the typical New Yorker
sense of urgency. In NYC, only the rats can afford an
andante.
Speaking of music, I do not see either Alex Ross or Terry Teachout no
matter how hard I
look, but what are the odds?
Der Drübermensch goes ga-ga for
MoMA; the Easter egg hunt quality of the kid's audio tour plays a big
part of the appeal. Smart move there, mister museum curator guy! My fav
is Rousseau's
Sleeping Gypsy. Our lunch in the museum cafe is easily the best
food we eat in NYC. Notice I did not say cheap. Meanwhile, it just
keeps raining. We return to the hotel and lie about exhausted for two
hours, warm and dry. The sister-in-lawösphere (hereafter SILöS) takes
us to an Italian restuarant in Astoria for pizza. The owner is
gregarious, helpful, teasing, and very
very old school. NYC
pizza is, admittedly, superb. Admittedly as good, in its way, as
Chicago-style.
Saturday is clear and we spend an hour in four different lines
to get to the top of the ESB. (We were too savy to wait in the ticket
line.) We are no fools; the King Kong posing for pictures in the lobby
is obviously a man in a suit. Seeing the ESB in person, I finally get
why its architecture is admired, but I remain loyal to Chrysler, and
wish I could crawl around in its metal crown. We meet SILöS and
walk to Rockafeller Center and St. Pat's. We eat vendor food.
The
Maharincess loves chicken in all its forms so Mediterranean spices are
not a deal-breaker, but a Philly
steak sandwich is the trip's culinary low point for
Der Drü's hyper-picky palate. We ride to the
Museum of Natural History. Each subway use is a ride of horror-movie
logistics; the leap from the platform must be choreographed so No
Child
is Left Behind. We read Teddy Roosevelt's Deep Thoughts while standing
in line in the museum lobby. ("I want to die in my sleep, like my
grandfather; not screaming in terror, like the passengers in his
horse-drawn carriage.") I see a skull of an Indricotherium, a house-sized
mammal: cool. SILöS is meeting friends tonight, so we dine in at the
hotel's restaurant. What a joke. A very expensive, microwaved joke.
Sunday we search for church. The earliest service at the
mega-church two blocks away is 11:00am, so we attend the Catholic
church that is next to our hotel. Or try to. Its website misinforms
us of the service times, and mass is almost over as we walk in. Say
what you will about the mega-church phenomenon; from this vantage point
its customer-service orientation looks like old-fashioned courtesy.
(This assumes the mega-church's website was better maintained; just an
assumption on my part. Still, probably a safe bet.) We
enjoy a family devotional in our van, parked three cars down from a
Camry with a freshly smashed window. We revise downward our opinion of
this neighborhood. At least the parking is free. The SILöS takes us to
FAO Schwartz. We see a short little old nun admiring the Lego statue of
Harry Potter. She is from central casting. She can't keep her hands off
Harry. Both are exactly
the same height. Both are wearing black. I kick myself for not
bringing the camera.
Der Drü insists on descending into the
Apple Store, it having the most arresting retail entrance I've ever
seen. At
this shrine, on this Sunday morning, cultists worship God in their own
way. It smells like a horse barn. (I grew up on a farm, so I know my
barns; when I say horse, I definitely do not mean cow, sheep or pig. We
are
near the corner of central park, so horse manure tracked into the store
is not an impossibility.) We walk around Central Park. The kids play a
game in that Chess and Checkers House seen in
Searching for Bobby
Fisher. A retiree waits for a Godot-like opponent. A yuppie couple
play nearby, possibly on a first date. Further up the park we see toy
sailboats on a pond and
Der Drübermensch plans to become a toy
yachtsman.
We walk too far north and see the Metropolitan Museum of Art through
the trees. Its
walls mock me, as our failure to visit it is my biggest regret. We
return to the subway, walking past swanky apartments and a man sleeping
on the sidewalk, picking a pizza place at random for lunch. Even random
pizza in NYC is excellent. We escape from NY without problem, using my
map memory to find the route to the Verrazano Bridge and across Staten
Island all the way to Harrisburg, Pa. Everything in this state looks
surprisingly not crowded. I can now relax. Don't get me wrong, NY was a
blast--but this was the most nerve-wracking vacation ever.
Monday we eat our free hotel breakfast while watching some infotaining
show called Good Morrow or some such. The hosts debate the virtues of crunchberries
vs. waffle crisp. You can't parody this stuff, but you can thank it for
confirming yet another prejudice! We drive to Fallingwater. At the
cafe we pay ten bucks
for some turkey and lettuce on two uninspired cantilevers of bread. The
house, however, is yummy. All of Wright's usual virtues and vices are
on display, in extreme. The tour guide plays just the right mix of
reverent courtier and court jester, and she and I share a laugh over
the Wright Attitude. The gift shop's powers are too much for us, and we
buy some stuff. The kids claim to enjoy the visit. We drive home. Today
is Frank Lloyd Wright's birthday.
Tuesday we take a vacation from vacationing.
Labels: Architecture, Frank Lloyd Wrong, Holiday